Jordan Journal Day 2

After our move of rooms, we slept OK and got to breakfast at peak time - no bowls, no places to sit, no tea cups. It was bedlam. We did find some seats as a couple were just leaving, so we sat at the dirty table! No-one came to clean it, so we had to ask for cutlery and napkins. What a shambles!

Soon we were on the road, leaving Amman behind and heading south for Mt Nebo (Jabal Siyagha). Mo must have had a long night discussing politics as he almost harangued us with political views for a while on the bus – all in the name of giving us some background in to Jordanian life.

The story of Mt Nebo is that Moses stood here and looked into the Promised Land. He never managed to cross to the west bank, but died and was buried somewhere near by, but no one seems to know where – not even in the Old Testament. There is a brotherhood of Franciscan monks living here and they are building a new church over the site of the Byzantine one, which has a remarkable mosaic floor. We saw one of the floors in a special tent, but the best one is under the construction. It will be preserved and able to be seen when the construction is completed. They depict extravagant beasts, twirling leaves and flowers with twisting borders. At the top of the hill we looked across into the Promised Land and glimpsed the very top end of the Dead Sea. Jerusalem is a mere 26km away, but it was too hazy to see the city. There is a cross with a snake coiled around it here, too.

 
















Then we were back in the bus and off to Madaba. This is a very tolerant place with churches and mosques next to each other, rubbing along peaceably. It has been a centre for mosaic making since the Byzantine era. We visited the church of St. George which also has a mosaic floor. This time it is a depiction of the world at the time the mosaic was made, with the river Jordan flowing across it joining the north of Jordan to the Mediterranean. You can pick out several towns including Madaba and Jerusalem; also the Nile Delta, the Dead Sea and more. We walked back to the bus through the town and saw people making mosaic plaques in some workshop/shops. A couple of the party bought some.

Mo had a good place planned for lunch - a sort of Bedouin tent overlooking the impressive Grand Canyon of Jordan (Wadi al Mujib). With a dam at one end, a lake has formed, trapping the winter run off water before it flows into the Dead Sea, thus saving lots of water for drinking and irrigation for which the country is desperate. A and I shared a sandwich, crisps, cucumber and a tomato. There was a rather revolting chocolate roll for pud and a banana. Then the man brought us tea, which was made with sage, cardamom, cinnamon and a fresh mint leaf. Very refreshing.

But we soon had to be off again to see the Crusader Castle of Karak. Driving through the impressive countryside, we stopped to take pics of the views, and saw some bee-eaters, swifts, swallows and a griffin vulture. I also think I saw a kestrel, but others were sceptical.

Karak Castle is huge, taking up a whole hillside! It commanded the whole access from South to North, so was very strategic. Although it was originally a Crusader place, the Mamlukes who came later, built over the cruder Crusader construction. Apparently, Saladin besieged the fortress twice in 1183 and 1184. King Baldwin IV relieved these sieges by marching from Jerusalem, but in 1189 Karak fell and the Crusaders left. We walked through various rooms, including the kitchens area, then we came out at the top and took in the view. Mo told us that they can get quite a lot of snow this high up, and one year the amount of snow brought down part of the wall which has had to be rebuilt.

 As we now had about three hours to drive, when we got back to the bus Mo put on a DVD that played on a flip down screen by the driver. This was the film Kingdom of Heaven with various film stars playing Crusaders and Saladin and their armies in the story of Karak Castle. But the landscape was more interesting and quite a lot of snoozing went on. Unfortunately for those watching, we arrived before the end of the film.

We arrived at Dana Guesthouse in time for a lovely sunset. Before the sun disappeared we saw some chukar, Alectoris chukar, (partridge type birds), bulbuls, an icterine warbler, Hippolais icterina, lots of swifts (crag swifts), swallows, another kestrel, all with the help of a knowledgeable guide from the Guesthouse. The sun sank away leaving a crimson/purple afterglow, and the moon had risen behind us. Quick showers in the communal bathrooms were taken and then upstairs for a buffet supper ending with sweet tea and cake. I had a go at taking moonlit landscape pics of the vista falling away from the back of the guest house. I also got in a couple of the moon itself.

Jordan Journal Day 1

We arrived in Jordan in the early hours and were taken to our hotel for a short night's sleep. Although we met our fellow travellers - we are twelve in all - we were all tired from the journey and the lateness of the hour. After only a few hours sleep, we were down to breakfast by 8am and met with Mo at 9am for a team talk. Soon we were in the bus and into the horrendous traffic of Amman. After a stop for the bank, we made slow progress to the north of the city and took the road to Jarash. There were lovely views once we were out of the white city and we passed many olive trees as well as nurseries with plants growing in poly-tunnels behind the roadside facade. People were also selling stacks of pomegranates. It is just the season and we also saw ripe ones on trees in the gardens.

We reached the modern town of Jarash, but drove on to the castle at Ajloun. Mo bought our tickets and then we took a shuttle bus - a bit like a trailer ride at a farm fair - up to the castle. It is surrounded by a dry moat and we walked across the bridge and into the castle. Ajloun Castle was known as Qalaat ar-Rabad and is one of the best preserved examples of medieval Arab military architecture. Built between 1184 and 5 by one of Saladin’s governors, Izz ed-Din Ousama, its position at a strategic point on the route from Damascus to Egypt prevented further expansion by the Crusaders who were trying to gain superiority in the region in the 12th century. Saladin went on to defeat the Crusaders and evicted them from the region in 1189.

We saw artefacts in their small museum, and then climbed up to the roof to see the view across to Israel - only 20 minutes away to the King Hussein Bridge. It was very hazy, so no clear view, but it was amazing. Back to the bus and Mr Mohammed drove us back over the hills to Jarash. We walked by Hadrian’s Arch, which is under repair, to the start of the beautiful ruined city, but stopped at the tourist restaurant for lunch which was a buffet of mezze, salads and some meat dishes. It was delicious, but too much! A had a Sprite, but I tried the lemonade with mint which was very refreshing.

Now we began our walk through the ancient city. Jarash, referred to as the ‘Pompeii of the East’, was first built by the legions of Alexander the Great around 200BC. Later came the Romans who created the city as one of the Decapolis, ten cities that traded across the region. It is virtually the whole of a Roman city centre built out of peachy coloured limestone, with beautifully carved details still present on many buildings. It is extensive, lots of columns with Corinthian capitals, but also mosaics, theatres and paved streets. 

We began at the circular forum; the temple of Zeus; then around into the theatre where a quartet of bagpipers and drums played a couple of Scottish tunes for us!

There are still seat numbers carved into the stone benches. Then we walked up to the temple of Artemis; the small theatre and then along the Colonnade street. Some of the ruins still have amazing mosaic floors, just open to the weather. Alan and I saw several lizards, and then as we were leaving the forum, we spotted a hoopoe pecking its way along. Our last stopping place was the impressive hippodrome where they have mock chariot races, these days. But there weren’t any going on while we were there.

We did see a Blue Rock Thrush, Monticola solitarius, perched on one of the floodlights. These are used during the evenings of the Jarash Festival, which takes place annually in July.

The drive back to Amman took a while and we all snoozed for a bit after our lack of sleep last night. Dinner was planned for 7pm, and we went to a local place, Blue Mill, where everyone had more mezze, flatbreads and some followed this with chicken or lamb with chips, reminding us of our Algerian dinner many years ago.. We indulged in lemonade with mint and a cup of tea, still being full after lunch in Jarash. Mo left us on the bus with Mr Mohammed so he could take a lift home. We will meet up ready to leave at 8.30am tomorrow.

We have just settled into another room after water began seeping through the ceiling in 151. The new room is on the top floor of the new wing and very pleasant. Hope we sleep well to be ready for the adventure to the south down the King's Highway.

Renovated Agriframes Garden at RHS Garden Wisley

What a day! It seems to have never stopped raining, but still loads of people braved the elements to visit RHS Garden Wisley. All through August there have been fascinating activities for children and as they come in for free - that's the 6-16 year olds - families have been visiting Wisley to join in the fun. This week the children have been involved with all things to do with bugs - looking at them and making them from willow and tissue.
Today was also the grand re-opening of Agriframes Garden of Rooms, one of the Model gardens at Wisley. In celebration, Agriframes invited Mr and Mrs Lawrence Llewellyn-Bowen to promote the garden as well as their new range of garden furniture for Agriframes.

It should have been a jolly party with a 'wizard' laid on for the children and drinks (of the bubbly variety for the adults) and snacks to be had in the conservatory at the back of the model garden. Even a bubble machine was bravely pumping out bubbles to the delight of the one or two children who were present. Mr and Mrs Llewellyn-Bowen looked very disappointed with the weather, hiding under brolleys, being interviewed by a dripping wet reporter as the photographer tried to make the best pictures he could despite the trying circumstances. Only a handful of visitors had made it up to the garden, but you can't blame those who didn't. The Garden of Rooms is looking good and the new furniture is fun - as you would expect -  so don't hesitate to go along and have a look at it, but choose a better day than today!