Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Holiday in Andalucia

After breakfast we were just about to leave the room when reception rang to say our driver was waiting for us. We proceeded to reception; checked out after removing an extra €20 from the bill for none existant drinks; and joined the driver who whisked us off to the station. We were a bit early for our train, Altaria, but joined a queue to go through airport style security once the train arrived. We were in the first carriage behind the engine and the crew car, as were a large party of Americans travelling to Madrid. The weather looked threatening, but as we set off through miles of olive trees it cleared a bit leaving clouds nestling in the valleys. There were some spectacular outcrops rearing up from the plains as well as pretty white villages. It took about two and a half hours to Cordoba during which time we were served a second breakfast - again like being on a plane.
When we arrived, we decided to walk the short distance - less than a km -to our hotel. We hadn't reckoned on the rain, and got rather wet when it started halfway there. The hotel is in an old mansion, but contains an amazing surprise; in the dining room there is a glass floor through which we can view the remains of a beautiful 200bc Roman villa with a huge hexagonal design mosaic floor. Apparently this is lit during dinner and provides quite a diversion. Our room is across a courtyard on the first floor. Again it is exquisitely, minimalistically decorated; the perfect mix of old and new.


As soon as we were ready, we took maps, cameras and brolleys to walk via the market square down to the river. There are lots of little winding streets, but not up hill, leading in all directions, so easy to end up going in circles, but we didn't. The market was over but the square reminded us of the temple courtyards in Bhutan with its rows of arches and windows. We continued on to the river passing some interesting tile shop signs. At the river we crossed the road to the Milleflores Bridge. Here we could see that the river was very swollen and swirled by with lots of debris. Downstream is the 'Roman' bridge; built on Roman foundations with multiple archways, it has recently been restored and is a really ochre colour. The water whirled around its bases. Crossing the river via the new bridge, we climbed down steps to walk through a landscaped area along the opposite bank, then under the Roman bridge to see a restored waterwheel house, one of three, but the high water level had cut it off, so we couldn't get along to it. We climbed up the slope by the tower, Torre de la Calahorra at the end of the bridge and onto the Roman bridge which is now pedestrianised. Lots of people were walking along it and it gave wonderful views of the city. There is much renovation going on as the old part of the city is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The arch at the city end, Puerte del Puente, is surrounded by construction, so difficult to see. In the square next to it is the Triunfo de San Raphael which is a bit 'falling down'.
We walked away from the Mezquita - that's for tomorrow and followed the tile signs to Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos 1328. We visited this ancient area - a palace, arabic baths and extensive gardens, getting wet as it was getting more and more showery. It is a beautiful place.


At last it was time to walk back to our hotel, passed the city walls, through alleyways and squares. When we got to our room, Kirkers had arranged a chilled bottle of champers for us and we had a couple of glasses catching up on the photos during a thunderstorm.
Dinner at 8.30 was in the 'floating' restaurant,quite busy as mostly foreigners were eating there. We had slow cooked egg with vegetables and mushrooms, carpaccio, Iberican ham and beef fillet; and a delicious bottle of Aalto Ribero del duero 2006.

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