Today we left early, leaving most of Lom having a Sunday lie-in! Our
first stop would be at Urnes Stave Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
(WHS), but first we crossed the Sognefjellet with spectacular views of
the Jotenheim and the glaciers. Here the snow is stained pink by the
lichen growing on it. Road 55 is quite famous as it snakes across the
mountains, eventually dropping down to the fjord. We were lucky to be
able to park up by the church as there was a small market being set up
outside it. Dougal’s crutches worked wonders! We bought our tickets to
enter Urnes Stave Church and waited in the church yard for our tour of
the beautiful little church. It was declared a WHS in 1979 and is the
oldest preserved church, dating from the 12th century. It is now owned
by the Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments.
Although there are 28 of these ancient churches left – from an original
1000, Urnes is the oldest and the most decorated. You can see how lovely
it is from the surviving carvings on the outside and the interior lives
up to expectations, although no photographs are allowed inside. If you
want to know more, visit the Society’s website .
We needed to get
our ferry, so drove just over the road to the terminal and took the
short ferry across the fjord; then off again, as we had our second ferry
to catch that would take us up Naeroyfjord, another WHS. This is a very
dramatic fjord, which is narrow with steep sides. On a sunny summer’s
day the beauty of its landscape must be breathtaking. On our trip, it
was rainy, misty and mysterious. The cliffs soared up into the clouds;
waterfalls appeared out of the mist; and the water was grey and still.
But it was quite an experience.
Our destination was Gudvangen,
from where we drove up to the historic hotel, Stalheim. The road itself
is an experience with hairpin bends to test the driver and several
spectacular waterfalls. Our rooms overlook the terrace with views right
down the Naeroy valley, which is alternately filled with mist and cloud,
then clear enough to see the winding road down the valley following the
river.
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