Jordan Journal Day 1

We arrived in Jordan in the early hours and were taken to our hotel for a short night's sleep. Although we met our fellow travellers - we are twelve in all - we were all tired from the journey and the lateness of the hour. After only a few hours sleep, we were down to breakfast by 8am and met with Mo at 9am for a team talk. Soon we were in the bus and into the horrendous traffic of Amman. After a stop for the bank, we made slow progress to the north of the city and took the road to Jarash. There were lovely views once we were out of the white city and we passed many olive trees as well as nurseries with plants growing in poly-tunnels behind the roadside facade. People were also selling stacks of pomegranates. It is just the season and we also saw ripe ones on trees in the gardens.

We reached the modern town of Jarash, but drove on to the castle at Ajloun. Mo bought our tickets and then we took a shuttle bus - a bit like a trailer ride at a farm fair - up to the castle. It is surrounded by a dry moat and we walked across the bridge and into the castle. Ajloun Castle was known as Qalaat ar-Rabad and is one of the best preserved examples of medieval Arab military architecture. Built between 1184 and 5 by one of Saladin’s governors, Izz ed-Din Ousama, its position at a strategic point on the route from Damascus to Egypt prevented further expansion by the Crusaders who were trying to gain superiority in the region in the 12th century. Saladin went on to defeat the Crusaders and evicted them from the region in 1189.

We saw artefacts in their small museum, and then climbed up to the roof to see the view across to Israel - only 20 minutes away to the King Hussein Bridge. It was very hazy, so no clear view, but it was amazing. Back to the bus and Mr Mohammed drove us back over the hills to Jarash. We walked by Hadrian’s Arch, which is under repair, to the start of the beautiful ruined city, but stopped at the tourist restaurant for lunch which was a buffet of mezze, salads and some meat dishes. It was delicious, but too much! A had a Sprite, but I tried the lemonade with mint which was very refreshing.

Now we began our walk through the ancient city. Jarash, referred to as the ‘Pompeii of the East’, was first built by the legions of Alexander the Great around 200BC. Later came the Romans who created the city as one of the Decapolis, ten cities that traded across the region. It is virtually the whole of a Roman city centre built out of peachy coloured limestone, with beautifully carved details still present on many buildings. It is extensive, lots of columns with Corinthian capitals, but also mosaics, theatres and paved streets. 

We began at the circular forum; the temple of Zeus; then around into the theatre where a quartet of bagpipers and drums played a couple of Scottish tunes for us!

There are still seat numbers carved into the stone benches. Then we walked up to the temple of Artemis; the small theatre and then along the Colonnade street. Some of the ruins still have amazing mosaic floors, just open to the weather. Alan and I saw several lizards, and then as we were leaving the forum, we spotted a hoopoe pecking its way along. Our last stopping place was the impressive hippodrome where they have mock chariot races, these days. But there weren’t any going on while we were there.

We did see a Blue Rock Thrush, Monticola solitarius, perched on one of the floodlights. These are used during the evenings of the Jarash Festival, which takes place annually in July.

The drive back to Amman took a while and we all snoozed for a bit after our lack of sleep last night. Dinner was planned for 7pm, and we went to a local place, Blue Mill, where everyone had more mezze, flatbreads and some followed this with chicken or lamb with chips, reminding us of our Algerian dinner many years ago.. We indulged in lemonade with mint and a cup of tea, still being full after lunch in Jarash. Mo left us on the bus with Mr Mohammed so he could take a lift home. We will meet up ready to leave at 8.30am tomorrow.

We have just settled into another room after water began seeping through the ceiling in 151. The new room is on the top floor of the new wing and very pleasant. Hope we sleep well to be ready for the adventure to the south down the King's Highway.