We met Moe at 6.45 and as we were about to start a huge storm blew up whipping sand and rain across the hotel car park. It reminded us of the shamal we experienced in Oman way back in the early '80s, although that wasn't accompanied by any rain. Nevertheless we were already walking towards The Siq by 7. It was quiet and we had plenty of time for pics. Even when we reached the famous view of the Treasury through the rocks, we had little 'interference' from tourist crowds. That view was all we had expected and it was amazing to have reached Petra at last. Everywhere we looked there are monuments carved from and into the rock. It is a wonderfully warm pink that must glow in the sun but it was not shining. The sand stone has many different colours and one of the first stops was at a stall that made sand sculptures in bottles. The man showed us how he drew a camel from black sand in the bottle - very clever.
Then it was time for us to begin our climb up to the High Place of Sacrifice, 200m up the Jebel al Madhbah.This is up 300 steps, which we took at a steady rate and soon reached the top with stupendous views. It is thought that the Nabateans inherited this place from the Edomites and could well be the oldest cultic site in Petra. As we climbed we had to keep stopping to let people go by on donkeys - cheats!
We all assembled at the viewpoint and Moe pointed out the urn on top of the Monastery that we will visit this afternoon. It is facing away from this position, as just the urn is visible peaking above the surrounding rocks, but it must be huge. Moe lead us up the rocks to the actual place where sacrifices took place and on the way we spotted an amazing creature - a sort of spotty yellow grasshopper-type animal. Then we started down again by the Wadi Farasa route passing some fantastic rocks as well as seeing some more tombs, and being passed by donkeys picking their way precipitously down the steep steps.On this route we came across the Lion monument or fountain, with the rock wall stained by the waterfall and the remains of the lion - now minus head - carved into the rock. Moe explained that the water gushed out of the Lion's mouth when the 'fountain' was complete.We stopped by an old lady's coffee/tea stand for tea with mint before continuing down eventually coming to an area where they were doing excavation. They clear as much as they can, cataloguing all they find, then backfill as this is in the main pathway. Their 'dig' lasted three weeks. Our route brought us down to the main road through the middle of Petra and we made for the second bridge to the cafe where we stopped for sandwiches and drinks.
After lunch we began the climb up to the Monastery. This is another 800 steps and Moe, who was not joining us, said that it should take about 45 mins to an hour. The 'younger' ones headed off at a pace. Mick the Irish chap has his birthday (42) today and he is a super fit guy. He was challenged by some of the others including his wife to go up fast and they were at the monastery in 25 mins. Alan and I were joined by Wendy and made it in a sedate 40 mins. Another amazing monument and we climbed up the hillside facing it to a viewpoint with a great view of the Monastery as well as over the other side to the plain around the Jordan valley and into Israel. The Monastery, ad Dayr, has the largest façade in Petra being 45m x 50m, with its columns and urn - very impressive.
We then started down slowly, and the others sped off to another viewpoint. They caught us up about 2/3rds of the way down, almost running passed us. They practically raced up another side road, and then came passed us again, but we were pretty much at the bottom by now. Alan and I had decided to go and look at the mosaics in the Byzantine church, and branched off to the left and up the hill. The others had taken the main path through the middle. When they saw us, they turned round and came to catch us up again as they too wanted to see the mosaics. There was thunder rattling around the hills and there were dark clouds looming behind some. The mosaics were lovely and when we came out from seeing them the thunder was getting louder.
We hurried down the hill and the others were well ahead of us - we thought Mick was looking for a beer! So we decided to take a quick look at the amphitheatre, only all of a sudden the storm broke and the wind drove the rain across the site. We sheltered behind a rock, while the people on the other side were able to shelter in some caves. When the wind dropped we began to get very wet, but it eased to a drizzle and we went to look at the amphitheatre and then joined the crowds who were leaving. Many horses and camels were carrying people back to the Treasury in the middle of the crowds. It was busy now - people leaving as well as some just arriving and there were also calêches charging through the middle carrying people in and out - far to fast through the throngs of people.
We got back to the hotel by about 4.30 and took welcome showers. We were meant to meet Moe to go and watch the sunset over Petra, but that wasn't on with the weather, so we all met in the Lobby lounge for a beer before dinner at 7. Moe had found a great place for mezze followed by lamb and rice, then a birthday cake for Mick, and fruit. It was a very jolly gathering. They have all gone up to the Roof Garden for more beers, but we have decided to retire - tired after a busy day!
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