Lycian Way

We were up and packed for breakfast at 8.30 in hope of starting by nine, but when everything was done it was nearer 9.30 when we started. Hakan gave us a god's eye for luck (nazar boncugu), then as they waved us goodbye, Mehmet threw a pan of water on our path to wish us a clear and flowing journey. And this was how we started the Lycian Way. We walked through some lovely countryside with spectacular views across valleys to mountains with clouds hanging between them. There was plenty other things to see as well with the wildflowers and some amazing insects, tortoises and a few birds. There were beetles of various kinds including a shield beetle, 'long horn' beetles, red ones etc. Alan spotted a praying mantis - just a small one and we also saw lots of butterflies and a couple of dragon flies and some blue and some white damsel flies. There were also skinks and a couple of frogs in a pond. He even saw a snake that fled off into the undergrowth at high speed. Our first stop was by a gate, which we reached just 10 mins over schedule, so we were quite pleased. The track went over the gate and we bashed on following the red and white waymarkers, but at times they were a bit obscure. Nevertheless, we did well and came down to the main road only half an hour over time. We crossed and took the small road off to the right which swung round and down onto a wide track where we met a Turkish couple who pointed us in the right direction, and then another man who told us that the turn we were looking for was just ahead. We found it and then wandered downwards passed a house where a woman indicated that we should cut across to the right. It was tricky to see the correct path through this overgrown field, but we managed and eventually came down a narrow path on to another small tar road. On the chimney of the small house at the junction we spotted a couple of largish lizards that were living there. Turning right, we followed this road passed some rather posh restaurants - one where the guests were lying on couches on wooden platforms in the river, reached by little bridges. We walked on by and after a few minutes saw the sign to the recommended eatery. It was advertised next to another restaurant advertising in Russian! When we got to Havuzbas(h)i Restaurant, they were very welcoming and took us up to a platform over the fish tanks with a great view down the valley. They served us flatbread, salad of onions, tomato, cucumber, herbs and carrots in a balsamic dressing, yogurt, cheese, aubergine, cheese stuffed mushrooms and one trout divided between two, A had a beer and I an oj. It all came to about £11 - very good value.

It appeared that the afternoon walk was a bit shorter than this morning as we had already done 10Km, so off we set feeling quite pleased. Just behind the restaurant our track took us under some trees - mulberry and fig, with lots of fruit on them. Our first obstacle was the Ulipinar River. We clambered down to the bank, meeting some other walkers who just remarked that it was shoes off time! And so it was, but we crossed only getting our rolled up trousers a little wet. It was very refreshingly cold on our feet and legs. Shoes on again, we resumed the walk to the sound of water and began to climb above the river. There were oleanders in the river bed, reminding us of wadis in Oman. The diagonal climb across the hillside went on and on and we found it very tiring. Frequent stops, then 'pole, pole' owards and upwards brought us eventually over the saddle to views down the valley to the beach. On the climb, Alan had disturbed a family of chukars on the path - mum and chicks who scurried away - leaving a couple of slowcoaches that he chivvied on into cover, so they didn't loose the rest of the family. Just down from our stopping point we spotted the upper eternal flames of the Chimaera - quite a surprise. We walked down to them and took photos. As this was here, we thought it wasn't far to the next flames, but we hadn't reckoned with a difficult descent off a ridge down into the gully, which took us a long time. We eventually arrived at the Chimaera large flames, which are amazing. We stopped to take some pics, and also saw the ruined byzantine church before leaving down the path to the bottom. Again, underestimating how far this was, we descended about a Km of deep steps built for giants, but came to the bottom where we needed to pay the man 3.50TL each for seeing the Chimaera. As we left, just 20m from the place a Brit cycled by and asked us how far it was. It turned out he came from Kingston! Said it was very quiet in Cerali. On we bashed - another 2 Km to go to the pansyon. We saw lots of bee eaters on the telegraph wires - beautiful colours, plod plod plod, then we saw the landmark mosque with our turning just 25 m along and the Anatolya Resort just down on the left. It is a lovely place with lots of peacocks - even a white one. We were spotted by P&R from a couple of nights ago, who pointed us to the entrance and we were met by a pleasant young chap who brought us some tea. Dinner was at eight, so we washed and showered and looked at the view of Mt Olympos, watched the birds swooping around, then into dinner of pea and mint soup, mixed salad with tsatziki, ratatouille with chicken and choccy pud. Didn't manage to take pics of it all, but enjoyed a glass of red Angora with it. Afterwards we compared notes with the other two, who had also found the days walk a bit tough. They have another tough walk tomorrow when we get a 'rest' day and then it's our turn again.

About Nazar Boncugu, the Turkish evil eye