Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Lycian Way

We slept like logs and felt well rested to start the next section of the walk. Fezule served us breakfast on the upper outside terrace - a platter of cheese, tomato, cucumber, olives, egg and a slice of melon, served with some of the Turkish white bread. He also brought us mugs of tea. When we went down to pay for our beers the night before and to hand over the voucher, Carol was there with our picnics, which included some cake she had made this morning. She was up early taking the young people to Kas, so that Ronnie ( her assistant) could renew her visa by making the short journey to a Greek Island and returning with a new three month visa - like we had bought entering Turkey at Istanbul airport. Now all ready for the off, we noted which car Ismet would be using to collect us at the end of the walk at Melanippe beach, and set off.
Our road took us gradually up to an old deserted camel farm and then the real climb started through the forest. The route twisted and turned relentlessly upwards with some level parts, as the track followed the contours of the hill. As we climbed we had glimpsed views of the sea way below, turquoise and dark blue against the rugged cliffs. Once again we felt as if we were the only people on the trail, until we saw a couple of people ahead. We gradually caught up with them and it turned into a whole group of Brits walking together. There was one poor chap complaining of a nasty bite he had on his hand - either an ant or a scorpion, which was making his walk very difficult. They were having a group photo against the backdrop of a rugged headland and an island and the blue, blue sea.
We walked ahead of them, continuing along the coastline and through the forest. As the track turned inland it started to climb and on and upwards we went coming to a steep climb up a rock wall. It was a tough climb and we were thankful when we were in the shade of the trees and when there was a little breeze to cool us. As we reached the top we could see the sea on both sides, with a view of the island that had looked just like a cone from the first time we had seen it, but was now a long rugged shape. (Sula Ada).
Just down from this summit we found a shady spot and sat down to enjoy Carol's picnic. We had bread and a chicken drumstick with tomato, cucumber, matchsticks of cheese and carrot(?), but we saved the sweet things for afternoon tea at the beach. So we set off again, clambering down the hillside, soon spotting the lighthouse below us. It took a short time to reach it, now an automatic station with its living space abandoned. We turned right along the coast and followed the easliy seen trail through the forest to a dirt road. Here we had another surprise as we had to follow this road up over another ridge to get round another headland - a couple of kms and down to the turning for Melanippe. We eventually reached the beach at 4.15 to find picnic tables and a stony beach and some cool shade where we could partake of our afternoon tea - apples and fairy cakes that Carol had made. At 5pm Ismet arrived with Carol and we were glad to throw the bags in the back of the Ford Connect and relax as they drove us to the ATM in Finike. A got some cash out ot the wall, then spotted that the little shop by us was selling Magnums, so he treated us all. Ismet was very pleased as he loves chocolate - and Carol also as it was her first of the season!


On we then drove, seeing some crazy driving that even Ismet remarked on as tires squealed and we all thought one of the cars would surely leave the road. But Ismet drove us safely to our destination, Hoyran Wedre Country House Hotel. Here we were greeted by Suleyman and all four of us were served tea and delicious sweet pastries, before Carol and Ismet left as they had to drive the hour and a half back to Adrasan. Suleyman showed us to our room and dinner would be in half an hour at 19.30, so we quickly showered, changed and came back to the terrace to find Pat and Robin and another couple, Carol and Marcus, ready for dinner. As we were all together on one table, I did not make any pictures of our food. This was prepared by Canan, wife of Suleyman, and began with lentil soup, then we had a ratatouille with peppers and also one with courgette and a Turkish salad, which was followed by kofte and rice. Suleyman recommended we should try some Lykian wine - a Merlot Shiraz, which was lovely. We chattered away through out the meal and soon Canan was offering us some special sage tea. This was not from the normal sage leaves we have and that grow in abundance all along the trail, but one with long curling flowers, giving the infusion a gentle soothing flavour. As we were tired from the walk, we were soon ready to retire - as was everyone else, so off we went and were soon soundly asleep in our comfortable beds.


Hoyran Wedre information

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