Friday, May 21, 2010

Lycian Way

We had breakfast with the Ks at nine as the walk would be a bit shorter today. During breakfast Canan downloaded my photos, then asked us about the 'black currants' she has been colecting yesterday. She had looked them up on the web, but now knew they weren't black currants. So we all went to have a look at the bush was growing out of a limestone rock and had small broadleaves and tiny pale reddish berries, which would ripen into the black ones. The flowers had been white. It looked rather like a cotoneaster, but we weren't sure. I have a sprig to take to Wisley to ask the experts.

By 10.30 we were walking to the east gate with Canan having bid goodbye to Suleyman and we thanked them both for our very fine stay. It should be downhill all the way. At first we followed a red spot trail plunging down the hillside quite quickly and we seem to reach the distant polytunnels in no time maybe just over an hour. We negotiated our way past the village dogs of Kapakli and successfully found the first red and white markers indicating that we were back on the Lykian way. Less than halfway to our destination we pressed on through the rocky landscape up and down various gullies but seldom flat, reaching the coast at a pretty bay, then climbing up above and down the other side passing by a collection of derelict buildings. There was a yacht moored in the bay. We followed the coastline as it dipped in and out forming coves all along, and we passed a large banner pinned to the rocks advertising Smugglers Cove for a good evening's entertaiment with free water taxi all night! It was getting on, and we needed to have our lunch somewhere, so we found some suitable rocks with a pleasant view and sampled Canan's picnic.
Another hour's walking with very painful toes brought us to the graveyard and we turned left off the track to take the footpath over the hill by the Crusader Castle and the Lykian Necropolis. Suddenly we were in Simena and down a few steps past the market stalls we found our turn to Ankh Cafe and Pansyon. Hasan, the owner was planting climbing morning glories in an improvised flower bed by the door to our room.


He let us in to a great big room with the door onto the street and one into a partially covered courtyard complete with Turkish kush. No time to waste, and the shoes were taken off immediately and feet up with a cool bottle of water. We opened the door to the courtyard, but kept the screen closed, and about 4.30 Pat came knocking at the door. They had been lunching in the next door village on octopus and chips. She showed us the courtyard cat that had recently had three pretty kittens. We arranged to meet at around 8 for dinner.
A and I went down the steps to the cafe and had coffee and read for a while before coming back up to shower and change. We returned to the restaurant part of the cafe (inside) and ordered Raki. They serve doubles with lots of water, thank goodness, as it's quite strong, but deliciously aniseedy. P & R arrived and we sat together for dinner. It began with a buffet of mezze and while helping oneself, you ordered your main course from a selection of chicken, fish or prawns. Hassan's wife then cooked it freshly for you and served it with salad and bread. A and I had beers with our prawns. There was a plateful of fresh fruit for dessert. Pat had some Turkish coffee while we chattered about this and that, but we were really tired and they had to be at breakfast at 7.30am as we will be the next day to get to the flight for Istanbul, so we were soon climbing up the stone steps to our rooms.

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